The purpose of this tutorial is to introduce you to a method of enlarging images using a and Photoshop. The software mentioned is available here at reshade com. It allows you to enlarge images without making them blurry like directly in Photoshop. Here’s an example: We wouldn’t want wrinkles on this woman’s face to be too obvious. The extreme reshading chosen does that: Reshade com offers a kind of sharpening that is not available in Photoshop. The same effect cannot be created even if applying multiple filters. In the examples above this sharpening is set to a very high value to get the strongest results. This is done to select only parts of the image that need more sharpening. For best results you can combine the sharper version with the image resized in Photoshop. Create 2 layers: the bottom one is the resized version in photoshop the top one the reshaded version Create a mask on the top layer and with a soft brush removed the parts that were too sharp (the wrinkles). Mainly keep the reshaded eyes some of the hair and the mouth with the feathers. it is really good for me since i have been having that problem. I think it is also good for other who are doing or learning photo shop. Comment by chandy — November 3. 2007 @ XHTML: You can use these tags: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <code> <em> <i> <strike> <strong>

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I be to enlarge a 24" master bathroom door. Want to put in at least 30" to be the match the room door. I am pretty handy but never did a door job before. So far I checked two things.1) There are no wires or pipes in the protect next to it. The next stud is about 10" away so should be no problem.2) The rafters in the ceiling run parallel to the wall where the door is. So it should not be a load bearing wall. I do not know if there is a rafter alter above that wall. Questions:1) Do I need to support the ceiling when I pull out the frame for the old door.2) Can I do this job without removing the drywall all the way to the next continue. I don't want to do that because our wall thickness is weird does not match anything. Someone said our walls are "slates?" May be not the right word. But they do not look desire the drywalls in the store. It is more like 20" horizontal strips of drywall with a very hard "plaster" on it. So the thickness is not standard. Is there anyway to slip the side framing between the existing walls fix/attach in place and then cut the excess drywall. Thanks, What you have are old walls something between lath & plaster and sheetrock. (Very early 50's.)No you don't have to support the ceiling. It's not a bearing wall. Jsut frame in the new opening and plan on doing A LOT of mudding with joint compound to make the two meet. Feather it in a little at a time. You undergo a 3 or 4 day project in lie of you. Thanks Lefty,A lot of mud as you said. I had to fix another place in the utility room took many layers. What are these walls called? For future reference. They're plaster walls -- they used the strips of perforated sheetrock instead of lathe boards. (Faster to install than all those little lathe boards so the contractor could make a little more money or at least reduce his bid a little.) After you remove the old wall surface at least to the center of the next stud you might consider "padding" out the studs with plywood or luan strips. I would glue them in addition tomechanically fastening them. You'll use less mus and it will be a neater and striaighter job. Now the problem once you shift the old door and its frame your going to find out that the door jamb thicknessis probably larger than normal to account for. A new prehung door ordain likely be 4 9/16 so.. you may want to think about how will you deal with that. BEFORE you buy the door and long before you do the tear out. Dont forget you can get drywall 1/2 and 5/8 so be picky and be careful. Good luck. DoItYourself com® founded in 1995 is the leading independent home improvement and repair website. We welcome your comments and suggestions. All information is provided "AS IS." Website operating problems contact Questions of a Do It Yourself nature should be submitted to our "". procure © 1995-2008 DoItYourself com Inc. All rights reserved. You may freely link to this site and use it for non-commercial use subject to our. View our.

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I need to enlarge a 24" master bathroom door. Want to put in at least 30" to match the be the room door. I am pretty handy but never did a door job before. So far I checked two things.1) There are no wires or pipes in the wall next to it. The next stud is about 10" away so should be no problem.2) The rafters in the ceiling run parallel to the wall where the door is. So it should not be a load bearing wall. I do not know if there is a furnish right above that wall. Questions:1) Do I need to support the ceiling when I pull out the frame for the old door.2) Can I do this job without removing the drywall all the way to the next stud. I don't want to do that because our wall thickness is weird does not match anything. Someone said our walls are "slates?" May be not the alter word. But they do not look like the drywalls in the hold on. It is more like 20" horizontal strips of drywall with a very hard "plaster" on it. So the thickness is not standard. Is there anyway to slip the side framing between the existing walls fix/nail in place and then cut the excess drywall. Thanks, What you have are old walls something between lath & plaster and sheetrock. (Very early 50's.)No you don't undergo to support the ceiling. It's not a bearing wall. Jsut frame in the new opening and plan on doing A LOT of mudding with joint compound to make the two meet. Feather it in a little at a time. You have a 3 or 4 day project in lie of you. Thanks Lefty,A lot of mud as you said. I had to fix another place in the utility dwell took many layers. What are these walls called? For future reference. They're plaster walls -- they used the strips of perforated sheetrock instead of lathe boards. (Faster to install than all those little lathe boards so the contractor could make a little more money or at least decrease his bid a little.) After you remove the old wall ascend at least to the center of the next stud you might consider "padding" out the studs with plywood or luan strips. I would glue them in addition tomechanically fastening them. You'll use less mus and it ordain be a neater and striaighter job. Now the problem once you shift the old door and its frame your going to find out that the door jamb thicknessis probably larger than normal to account for. A new prehung door will likely be 4 9/16 so.. you may want to think about how will you deal with that. BEFORE you buy the door and long before you do the disunite out. Dont forget you can get drywall 1/2 and 5/8 so be picky and be careful. Good luck. DoItYourself com® founded in 1995 is the leading independent home improvement and repair website. We welcome your comments and suggestions. All information is provided "AS IS." Website operating problems contact Questions of a Do It Yourself nature should be submitted to our "". Copyright © 1995-2008 DoItYourself com Inc. All rights reserved. You may freely cerebrate to this site and use it for non-commercial use subject to our. View our.

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I need to enlarge a 24" master bathroom door. Want to put in at least 30" to match the match the room door. I am pretty handy but never did a door job before. So far I checked two things.1) There are no wires or pipes in the protect next to it. The next stud is about 10" away so should be no problem.2) The rafters in the ceiling run parallel to the wall where the door is. So it should not be a load bearing wall. I do not know if there is a rafter right above that wall. Questions:1) Do I need to support the ceiling when I pull out the frame for the old door.2) Can I do this job without removing the drywall all the way to the next stud. I don't want to do that because our wall thickness is weird does not match anything. Someone said our walls are "slates?" May be not the alter evince. But they do not look like the drywalls in the hold on. It is more like 20" horizontal strips of drywall with a very hard "plaster" on it. So the thickness is not standard. Is there anyway to slip the align framing between the existing walls fix/nail in place and then cut the excess drywall. Thanks, What you have are old walls something between lath & plaster and sheetrock. (Very early 50's.)No you don't have to give the ceiling. It's not a bearing wall. Jsut frame in the new opening and plan on doing A LOT of mudding with joint compound to make the two meet. Feather it in a little at a time. You have a 3 or 4 day project in front of you. Thanks Lefty,A lot of mud as you said. I had to fix another place in the utility room took many layers. What are these walls called? For future reference. They're plaster walls -- they used the strips of perforated sheetrock instead of lathe boards. (Faster to install than all those little lathe boards so the contractor could alter a little more money or at least reduce his bid a little.) After you remove the old wall surface at least to the center of the next stud you might consider "padding" out the studs with plywood or luan strips. I would glue them in addition tomechanically fastening them. You'll use less mus and it will be a neater and striaighter job. Now the problem once you shift the old door and its frame your going to find out that the door jamb thicknessis probably larger than normal to be for. A new prehung door will likely be 4 9/16 so.. you may want to evaluate about how will you broach with that. BEFORE you buy the door and long before you do the tear out. Dont forget you can get drywall 1/2 and 5/8 so be picky and be careful. Good luck. DoItYourself com® founded in 1995 is the leading independent home improvement and repair website. We welcome your comments and suggestions. All information is provided "AS IS." Website operating problems contact Questions of a Do It Yourself nature should be submitted to our "". Copyright © 1995-2008 DoItYourself com Inc. All rights reserved. You may freely link to this site and use it for non-commercial use subject to our. believe our.

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~Ray



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